Orientation and Travel

Local Representation

Kensing Tashi, a native of Shangri-La (Gyalthang), lives in Hanover NH with his wife and 2 children. He is a Dartmouth grad who, like many, returned here a few years ago for its many resources and quality of life. He also holds a Master's of Arts in East Asian Studies from the University of Wisconsin.

Tashi, as he is known locally, founded the InnerAsia Trading Co. in 1986 with the aim of revitalizing Tibet's rug weaving heritage. Presently, his rugs grace showrooms in Japan, Hong Kong, China, Germany, Australia, and the United States.

Continuing his dedication to his home region, he also began the first US-China venture in Gyalthang, the Gyalthang Dzong Hotel, presently managed by the famous Banyan Tree Resorts where our group will stay for a few days.

In 1996, Tashi began working with the regional Bureau of Forestry, and later the Royal Botanic Garden of Edinburgh and the Nature Conservancy to find a way to preserve his homeland's environment. Today, the region is home to the first world-class preserve in China - it is four times the size of Yellowstone National Park! It is there where our students will volunteer their time, intelligence, and muscle.

With another Hanover resident who holds a deep commitment to Tashi's home region, he has started Crossroads Center, a non-profit that is committed to fostering cultural and educational exchanges between his Gyalthang region and US institutions of higher learning. Our Rassias group started the process in the summer of 2007.

Summary

Yunnan, which means South of the Clouds in Chinese, is one of China’s least visited and most intriguing provinces. Located east of the Himalayas, north of Indochina and South of the clouds – is at the crossroads of Asia. Yunnan is a botanical as well as an ethnological marvel; a pristine enclave of rich diversity waiting to be discovered. We will follow the footsteps of Joseph Rock, a botanist, plant collector, naturalist, and explorer, who beginning in 1924 explored northwest China in the Tibetan region, observing local customs and collecting plant material for Harvard's Museum of Comparative Zoology. He later revealed the landscape of the Deqin (Dechen) region to an international audience through a series of articles in National Geographic.
Our travel and community service itinerary begins in Kunming, the capital of Yunnan, then moves on to Dali, the seat of the great Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms that eluded imperial control until the arrival of Kublai Khan’s armies in the 13th century. Continuing north, passing through Shaxi, a well-preserved town at the ancient trade caravan route linking south China to Tibet and India.

Leaving Dali, we will head to Lijiang, the ancient Naxi kingdom where the majority of the local populace, established a matriarchal society, speak a distinct Tibeto-Burman language and boast a unique pictorial -script and an ancient musical tradition.

Looking up at those icy, turquoise ranges, down at some of the earth’s deepest and most spectacular gorges, we climb up to our Tibetan host town, Shangri-La, a treasure-house of biodiversity, where the farmers lives in a handsome chalet-like home of adobe, stone and wood, with colorful designs on rafters and lintels. In Shangri-La, the visiting students will be hosted by the local folks who will welcome them with traditional hospitality. Here our students interact with fellow students of their age at both at the local Tibetan school overseen by Tashi’s organization, Crossroads, and at the Deqin Mountain School where they will teach English to the Deqin students.

Days 1: Arrival in Kunming

Arriving by air from Bangkok to Kunming., we will be met by our Crossroads Adventure representatives and be brought to a charming Chahua (or Camellia) hotel, located in the heart of the city. The capital city of Yunnan province, Kunming (6,490ft) is a low-key city with year-round mild temperatures, and served as the country’s educational and cultural center during World War Two. Tonight we will enjoy a welcome dinner, followed by a program orientation briefing by Rassias and Crossroads Adventure Travel staff.

Day 2 and 3, Kunming

On our next day in Kunming, we begin our exploration of the region with a drive to the foot of Western Hill from where we hike up to the Dragon Gate from where you can have a great view of Dian Chi Lake that was a source of inspiration for Yunnan poets. Then we visit the Bamboo Temple, at the gaze of the Western Hill, famous for its stunning five hundred life-size clay Buddhist figures. After lunch back in town, we will take a walking tour in the city, around the Green Lake, a charming area surrounded by teahouses and cafes as well as small shops selling souvenirs and paintings. Considered as the liveliest venue in town, the Green Lake is a place where people of all ages come and practice Tai Chi, Chikung, Peking opera, western dance, or simply enjoy its laid-back atmosphere.

Day 4: Kunming to Dali

In the morning, we leave Kunming and head north to Dali (6,425 ft). Dali is situated on a fertile green sparkling plain, watered by 18 streams cascading down from the symmetrical 19 peaks of the Canshan Mountain Range on the shore of the ear-shaped Erhai Lake. But for its massive walls, it is hard to believe this charming, laid back city was the seat of the great Nanzhao and Dali Kingdoms that eluded Chinese imperial control until the arrival of Kublai Khan’s armies in the 13th century.
This afternoon we will visit Xizhou, an ancient village famous for its delicate Bai Minority architecture and the batik heritage. In the evening, you will have a chance to explore Dali’s cafes & teahouses in the ancient town.

Day 5and 6: Lijiang

This morning we take a boat cruise on Erhai lake, enjoying the wonderful scenery with its stunning mountain backdrop and beautiful islands. Then we leave Dali and drive north to Lijiang via the road to the Tiger Leaping Gorge, tucked between Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and Haba Snow Mountain. This 18-kilometer gorge appears to be so narrow that, according to the legend, a tiger successfully escaped capture by jumping cross. Then we will continue south on the Yunnan Tibet Highway (which links northwestern Yunnan to Lhasa, Tibet) and reach Shigu (Stone Drum Village) to view the first great bend of the Yangtze River (the Yangtze flows south from Tibet into Yunnan and then turns north again for approximately 60 miles at Shigu). The history of the Chinese civilization would have turned out very differently without this northward bend of the Yangtze River.

By early afternoon, we arrive in Lijiang (7870ft), where will take a walk in the old Town, a World Heritage Site protected by UNESCO. It retains a great deal of Yuan, Ming and Qing period architecture. Lijiang is a township of pebbled paths, potted rhododendrons and whimsical architecture. Situated at the foot of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang is divided into two very distinctive sections: the Han administration and rustic charm of the Naxi part of the city that is often referred to as the "old city".

Day 7 and 8: Shangri-La (Gyalthang)

Today we visit what will be, in a few days, our home cityy. Nights for this first stay in Shangri-La will be spent in a local guesthouse located in the old town portion of the city. These two days allow us to get acclimateed tothe altitide (11,000") and the town before starting the homestay in a few days.

This first afternoon, we drive to Re-Nga (Dabaosi in Chinese ), the scared hill of 5 wisdom Buddha and most the revered pilgrimage destination for all Tibetans to make their prayer offering ritual. Due to the sacred nature of the Re-Nga, many Tibetan believe that the deities here are endowed with power to granting them their wishes. That is why many animals are freed here from slaughter in a ritual offering called “Swei Thong” or sparing life, which gains good merit and good Karma. We will visit a Tibetan family, enjoying their hot butter tea, cheese and Tsampa (barley powder), and see their home and hearth, which gives you a sense of how the local Khampas live.

Day 9: Gyalthang to Diqin (Dechen)

This morning, we leave Gyalthang and drive north along the Upper Yangtze - through rhododendron and pine forests and past the Napha Reserve. We will stop and visit the charming village of the Gonjo on the banks of the Gonjo River. The town is renowned for wooden handicraft and the art of lacquering.
Right across the river is Sichuan province. Here you can see very modest bridge on the Gonjo River where Mao Tse-tong led his soldiers on the Long March. Further on along our journey, we arrive at Punzera, bordering on Sechuan (6, 890 ft ). You wander through a warm oasis valley on the Yangtze where oranges, pomegranates and olives grow. Punzera is also an important town on the ancient Tea and Mule caravan route. This is a great place to stop for lunch.
We then continue climbing along the Yangtze Basin, with a stop at the monastery of Dhondupling.. Climbing further, we finally reach Baima Pass, with excellent views of the jagged peaks of Baima Snow Mountain at about 14,100 ft and enter the Baima Nature Reserve. From the other side of the pass, you descend into the town of Dechen or Deqin as it is also known.

Day 10 to 14, The town of Dechen to The Deqin Tibetan Orphanage School

We get up early today and drive to the Namkha Tashi Monastery. If weather permits, we will have a great view of the first sunlight shining on sacred Mt. Kawakarpo with the height of 6,740 meters, circumambulated by pilgrims old and young from faraway. One of the most important pilgrimage sites in all of Tibet, Mt. Kawakarpo represents the Mind emanations of the Buddha, while Kailash in Western Tibet represents the Body, and Ne Tsari in central Tibet, the Speech.
Then we continue driving down to the Mekong valley and reach Mingyong village, and from the village hike 5 km to a small inn, where you will see the glacier of Mt. Kawakarpo closely. We will retrace the route back to Dechen town and continue to drive all the way to the Deqin Tibetan Orphanage School at about 9,180 ft. The school will be our home for the next several days. Food will be simple meals prepared by the students and our kids as well in the school kitchen.

Note: Why we select the Diqin School?
Anui's adult life started out as a nomadic yak herder, but he was fortunate enough to go to school in India. There he learned the value of education and how it could lift many young Tibetans out of poverrty. So he returned to his native land, sold his farm and yaks and raised money to start The Diqin Tibetan School. In its 10th year now, it houses 60 to 70 students and is funded through numerous foundations and individuals.

At the school, all students are required to learn both Tibetan and Chinese. One of our plans is to mix the two groups of students in the same Chinese language courses, giving our hosts a totally different/Rassias experience to that upcoming at No.5 Middle School.

Our students from Rassias will well learn the hardship of the life at a Tibetan mountain school which may serve an enduring learning experience to our students from US.

This morning Chinese language courses will be given to Rassias students possibly together with the Tibetan students of the Tibetan Orphanage School, who face the same challenges to learn Chinese. After lunch together, we will walk up to the mountain with the students of the Orphanage and collect firewood for the school’s kitchen and heating. Gradually, our Rassias students will understand how a Tibetan Orphanage school is operated and how the students make their efforts and contributions to keep their school moving forward and to continue their study. In the late afternoon and for each day spent at the school, our students will also hold English classes for the Tibetan students (in the Rassias Method, of course!). Last summer’s students all were overwhelmed with the environment and kids at the school. It was, for many, a life-changing time. Several, in fact, have raised funds at their local school to send to the school. It is our hope that we, Rassias, will continue to teach and contribute to this school for many, many years to come.

Each morning we continue our Chinese language courses as well as the English classes for the Deqin students. After lunch, we will hike up the mountain and visit an ancient nunnery, the only Gelug nunnery of the region, established at the site of the Dhondupling Monastery and at present being renovated with funds donated by patrons from the States and Hong Kong as well as Tibetan patrons. The view of the Upper Yangtze Valley from here is spectacular. Back at the school by late afternoon, there will be the ever-present basketball competition between the Orphanage students and Rassias students as well as lots of Frisbee. After dinner, the Tibetan students will give a Tibetan cultural performance for Rassias students. In response, the Rassias students will do a talent show for the Tibetan students.

Time to Trek and Explore the Area with Our Friends At the Tibetan Orphanage School
With our friends at the Orphanage School, we set out to explore their countryside with a day hike and visit a few of the surrounding villages and hamlets and learn about the village life and how our friends and their folks make a living with the bare essentials; a life so simple and so close to nature. We learn how their lives in the remote countryside interface with modern society. Lots to ponder over at the end of the day.

More Explorations, Discussions, Games with Our Hosts at the Tibetan Orphanage School
We continue our exploration - digging deeper into the relationship between man, nature and culture in this lovely surrounding. We begin a dialogue among ourselves and with our friends and exchange ideas on the big questions of the day. Compare our experience here and reflect on our own lives back home in the United States. Let’s figure out the differences as well as our commonality in the way live, the way we each impact our environment, and how we foresee our futures.

Day 15: Deqin Tibetan Orphanage School to Shangri-La
Our bus will pick us up at the school to for our journey back to Shangri-la. However, we also get a chance to reciprocate and invite a few of our friends from the Orphanage School to join us for a few days in Shangri-la. We have our lunch again in Punzera.
You will notice that the climate here is drier with less rainfall. Interestingly, the architecture around here is similar to that of relatively arid Lhasa in central Tibet with flat roofs. Upon arrival in Shangri-la, we will stay once again at our favorite hotel and enjoy a good dinner at the old town of Shangri-la, joined by our guests from the Orphanage School, our home stay parents and their children. There will be introductions and the joy of sharing a meal. The Rassias students will stay at the hotel and move to our respective home stay the following day.

Day 16 to 29: Shangri-la
Each morning, we have Rassias language mandarin courses in the morning. While our Tibetan friends from the Orphanage will be studying Tibetan culture and English. After lunch, we will be at our hosting Tibetan Middle School of Gyalthang. The US and Tibetan students from the Tibetan Middle school and our guests from the Deqin Orphanage School will play a friendly game of either basketball, volleyball or soccer together. Then the Rassias’ students will be introduced to the students of suitably selected home stay families. The students and teachers of both Rassias and the other Tibetan schools will have lunch together. This afternoon the Rassias students begin their respective homestay.

Most afternoon, following lunch together, we either hear presenttations from local people involved with the region (The Mountain Institute, The Nature Conservancy, local governement environmental officials, a private developer concerned with the ecological impact of the outside world on Shangri-La, as well as visits to local sites. Here are a few places we go.

Sumsanling Monastery

We also visit the Sumsanling Monastery with our Tibetan friends from the Tibetan Middle School, the largest Gelugpa Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in Yunnan province, dating back to the 15th century. It once housed over 4,000 monks, and since the Cultural Revolution it has been rebuilt and is flourishing with some 700 monks in residence. After the tour of the monastery, we can meet with the living Buddha and get his blessings and prayer offerings for those who so wish. After a lunch break in town, we will visit the Traditional Tibetan Hospital and the Pharmacy. Don’t be surprised to meet American physicians or orthopedic surgeons who may be there to observe and study the method of the Tibetan doctor there who has been recognized as an expert on broken bone treatment. Dr. He is particularly adept at blending the traditional methods with that of modern western technology.

Exploring the Bita Nature Reserve
It's a short drive to the entrance to Bita Nature Reserve (bigger thn Yellowstone and China's first National Park) There we hike into the popular Reserve, which has recently become a protected area with a limited number of visitors allowed each day. Bita Lake was one of the most important but most threatened nature reserves of Gyalthang region. Now we know it will be preserved for posterity. It is a great opportunity to make your observations and have a discussion on the conservation efforts here. We return to our homes later in the afternoon

Trek to Re-Nga from Rotopo Hills Behind Gyalthang Dzong Hotel
As always, we continue our Chinese language courses. After lunch, we will do an afternoon of trekking through the verdant fields and beautiful Gyalthang villages to the Re–Nga .We will visit the village below Re-Nga and also take a quick tour of the famed Banyan Tree Resort, which was awarded a coveted prize for innovative architecture. If we are lucky, we may be able to catch He Kang, ( Kesang Tashi’s cousin) and ask him to join us on this. Among other accomplishments, He Kang was responsible to build this beautiful resort with re-cycled wood and beams from old Gyalthang houses. You have earned a ride home after your vigorous trek from Gyalthang !
The evening will end with a farewell Dinner to our friends from the Deqin Orphanage School.

Exploring the Trinyi Village
A 15 minutes drive takes us to Trinyi, a peaceful Tibetan village on the southeast side of the Napha Lake Reserve. The village has maintained their peasant nomad lifestyle for centuries. “Trinyi” means the secret of spring in Gyalthang Tibetan dialect. Early in 2002, The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) helped the village start a Building-Up-Community project which aims to promote eco-tourism and thus to bring income directly to the community and at the same time conserve the villagers’ pristine lifestyle, music, dance and other customs. Tonight, we will bunk down with one Tibetan family, two of our students per family

As the days of the Rassias program are numbered, we make extra efforts to improve our performance in the language class and drills to achieve marked progress with our spoken Chinese and our communication skills even with the village’s older people who struggle with mandarin Chinese as we do. In the afternoon, we enter into a discussion stimulated by our special guest speakers on Eco-tourism – what does it mean in theory and how it is practiced by an authority and practitioner in informal setting.

For example, a slide presentation by a well-known botanist-photographer about Shangri-la's region rich biodiversity and a talk by He Chang, formerly the Director of Forestry of Deqin Prefecture and currently the Head of Nature Conservancy in Gyalthang.

Day 27: Time to Conclude Your Explorations in Gyalthang.

Since this is your last day in Gyalthang, you might wish to divide up in smaller groups to do whatever you wish to do in Gyalthang before you leave. Any special place in town to visit again, people to say good bye to, a little restaurant you like to visit again or getting a few gifts you have been eyeing for your loved ones at home. Of course, you have to finish your language class and drill sessions too and finish your writing assignment and update your diary. Perhaps, some photography too. We will conclude the day with a Special fare well dinner in the old town.

Day 29: Back to the US
Today we will head to the airport in Lijiang and take a morning flight to Kunming. From there we will catch our flight back to Bangkok and on to the US West Coast!

A note on the region's diversity:

Many think of China as an ethnically homogenous country - they all speak one languge, they all look similar. A Rassias goal (yours too???), for not just China, but for all places where we travel, is to not just intellectually understand, but to feel the individual. Here's a small, but maybe insightful, insider's snapshot of Yunnan Province.... but join us, not read us!

"For centuries, Gyalthang was the major entrepot for trade and commerce between Tibet, South China, Burma and India. Braving brigands and natural hardships, mule caravans undertook arduous journeys that included pilgrimages as well as trade. A major item of trade was Yunnan's "brick" tea for Tibet's nomads and peasant farmers-all prodigious teadrinkers. The tea route spawned colorful tales of fortunes made and lost over muletrain loads of tea and cotton or raw silk from British India, and of romantic liaisons between the young Khampas and Naxi women."